Winter is a time of promise because there is so little to do — or because you can now and then permit yourself the luxury of thinking so. -Stanley Crawford
It's March, there's snow on the ground and it's COLD! So you're probably not thinking about actually planting yet. Or perhaps you're sitting with a pile of seed catalogs happily circling items and carefully tagging pages dreaming of spring. But you probably already have a stash of seeds from last year languishing in a shoebox in the back of the closet. Well get 'em out! We're gonna get our gardening fix right now... I'm gonna tell you what you should be starting this month (in zone 7a). Our last frost date is April 15 so adjust your schedule as necessary.
In January/February you should have started: Brussels Sprouts, Cardoons, Celeriac, Celery, Parsley Root, Stevia, Lemongrass, Eggplant, Artichokes, Cauliflower, and Leeks. You can start another succession of many of these this month.
In January/February you should have started: Brussels Sprouts, Cardoons, Celeriac, Celery, Parsley Root, Stevia, Lemongrass, Eggplant, Artichokes, Cauliflower, and Leeks. You can start another succession of many of these this month.
In February and March start these indoors: Asparagus, Anise Hyssop (bee's love this), Fennel bulb, Savory, Peppers, Tomatillos, Tomatoes, Broccoli, Cabbage, and Kohlrabi.
You can direct sow these hardy greens outside this month: Leaf lettuce, Kale, Green onions, Head lettuce, Spinach, Radishes, Cauliflower, Beets, Carrots, Turnips
I somehow always lose the little seed-pot maps I make - arg! I have to mark every single peat pot or by the time I transplant them I have no idea what I've got... I simply print out the appropriate portion of my seed inventory spreadsheet to create these tags, then I dab each one with a little rubber cement and fold them over a toothpick. It's tedious but put on a little music and it actually becomes a sort of relaxing task (I grooved to the bee gee's but whatever floats your goat).
Then I place the newly planted seeds in a warm spot to germinate. There's a heater vent near this table and in the daytime there's a lot of sunshine coming in this window to help warm my tiny greenhouses.
Once I get those first little sprouts I'll move the trays down to the basement where I have the lights they'll need for good growth. Keep the lights right on top of the starter tray until the plants start to touch the bulbs, then raise the lights bit by bit. They'll need 12 - 16 hours of light, I have the timer turn them on over night when electricity is less expensive. If you really want to get them off to a good start, continue to provide bottom heat also, this will make them into sturdy, stocky plants.
All the experts say cool (bluish-colored) light for sprouts and warm (yellow colored) light for full grown plants. I split the difference this year but I see that some starts are leaning over into the cool lights so I may change out the warm bulbs in my shoplights. Don't worry about getting "grow lights" they're expensive and you'll do just fine with regular cool florescents.
All the experts say cool (bluish-colored) light for sprouts and warm (yellow colored) light for full grown plants. I split the difference this year but I see that some starts are leaning over into the cool lights so I may change out the warm bulbs in my shoplights. Don't worry about getting "grow lights" they're expensive and you'll do just fine with regular cool florescents.
Lot's of good starts looking ready to be hardened off in the cold frame!
Next up: as soon as I can work the ground the seed potatoes will go in directly. Then sometime near the end of this month I'll be starting the later varieties of tomatoes - but they can't go in the garden until it warms up a bit. So many tomatoes, so little time! :~)
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